Big Bend, Texas
March 28, 2023
Reader Advisory: This is a looong post. The scenery was amazing, and Julie's rather excessive photo-taking habit is on full display here 😉!
Our trip through the sparsely populated southwestern portion of Texas was more scenic than expected. Perhaps it was the springtime new growth that enlivened the otherwise barren landscape. Regardless, the drive was a pleasant one (especially for the passenger 😉).
The day started out foggy/cloudy
Crossing the Pecos River
By afternoon, the sun was shining
Our destination was an RV park on the outskirts of the border town of Presidio. Even though there were over 90 sites at the park, it was really quiet, as several of the snowbirds had left already. That, and it just is not the tourist hotspot here.
Loma Paloma RV Park
Love all the wildflowers blooming 😊
Not a bad view for an RV park
Originally, we were going to stick to exploring the adjoining state park (Big Bend Ranch State Park), but the camp host convinced us that it was worth driving the two hours to Big Bend National Park. So the next day, we departed at the crack of dawn (sunrise is around 8am this time of year in this part of Texas), and drove the exceptionally scenic road to Big Bend National Park.
This continually scenic 40-mile road followed along the Rio Grande and was the southern boundary of Big Bend Ranch State Park.
We finally spotted us some javelinas!
Sunrise over the Rio Grande
Approaching Big Bend National Park
Finally inside the park!
Look around at sunrise in Big Bend
Big Bend National Park is huge, and there was no way we were going to see it all in one day. We decided to divide our time to two districts: the mountainous Chisos Basin and the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. We were hoping to hike the famed Lost Mine trail, but the parking lot only holds about 20 vehicles, and March is the busiest time of the year for the park. It is generally recommended to get there by 7am (before sunrise), if you want a parking spot. It was now close to 10am. We approached the parking lot, and of course it was full. No worries, we had a back-up plan for another (less impressive) hike, so we continued driving. On a whim, Rick decided to turn the truck around and try parking at a small pullout we passed about 1/2 mile before the trailhead parking. And what do you know, as we approached the lot a second time, someone was just pulling out! Yay--we got a spot!
The Lost Mine trail was spectacular (and around 5 miles round trip)!
Now there is some elevation!
We brought our chairs and took a break 1/2 way up to savor the view
Take a look around
The trail had a vertical climb of about a 1000'. The parking lot is way down there!
As far as we went up - and where we took out the chairs again for a break with a view - Look around
After the hike, we parked at a random spot along the road and had a picnic lunch before heading on to the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Not sure why they designated this particular road as scenic, as all the roads were scenic here.
Sotol Vista
Most of the prickly pears were just starting to bud out, but this one was near full bloom.
It was interesting how the buds were pink, but opened into very showy yellow flowers.
This cute guy looked soft enough to pet. It was not soft.
The geological variety was amazing.
The notch in the large background bluff is Santa Elena Canyon, our final destination.
This unusual part of the park had multi-colored and odd-shaped rock formations.
As we neared the end of the road, temperatures outside hit 99 degrees. Wouldn't want to be here in the summer!
The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive ends at Santa Elena Canyon where there is a hiking trail.
I always enjoy how completely confused the GPS gets in canyons. It managed to turn a 1.5 mile hike into 5!
According to park literature:
At the end of the scenic drive, take the short walk to the river and into Santa Elena Canyon--one of Big Bend's most scenic spots and an easy 1.4 mile round-trip hike.
Not sure "easy" is the word we would use to advertise this trail. Shortly into the hike, we arrived at Terlingua Creek:
Where is the trail? Oh, it goes through the creek. We asked a guy on the other side how deep it was, and he said, "Oh, not too deep--only about waist high on me." He was a pretty tall guy. Someone else chimed in that if we walk a short way down the bank, the water was only knee-high.
Fortunately, we had read on-line that a "creek crossing" may be necessary at certain times of the year, so we came prepared with water shoes. And the water sure felt good in the 99 degree heat!
The trail was scenic, but once again, it wasn't particularly "easy", as we had to climb up quite a bit and then come back down to view the entrance of Santa Elena Canyon.
We're always amazed at how cacti can produce such brilliant blooms.
Climbing up--only to have to go back down again further along the trail (and then do the reverse on the return!)
Look around at the trail along the Rio Grande
Take a look around
Along the shore of the Rio Grande, outside of the canyon
Straddling the border of Mexico and the US
Look around my border crossing
Mexico on the left, US on the right
We were pretty much spent at this point, so we started heading back home. We stopped in Terlingua on the way to get some dinner at "the best" BBQ place in town. Perhaps we just got the end-of-day leftovers, but the pulled pork in our sandwich was really dry. Rick commented that, being the only BBQ place for at least 100 miles, there was no false advertising involved. They did have a local band play for a while, so that was festive.
Being close to sunset, the drive back through Big Bend Ranch State Park was beautiful. Julie wanted to take a ton more pictures, but even she was kind of scenery-ed out for the day. But, she did snap a few (and so did Rick):
Sunset on the Rio Grande
Look around at all that color!
What an awesome day this was!
We were pretty tired after the Big Bend marathon, so we took a couple of days to take it easy around the campsite. On Saturday, we checked out Fort Leaton State Historic Site just about a mile down the road. This was the site of a major trading post in the heyday of trade among the Mexicans, Americans, and Native Americans, with all of the associated drama and intrigue typical of the lawless western frontier. It was quite a bustling area until the railroads were built (elsewhere), greatly reducing the popularity of the town. We were treated to a fine tour of the trading post and owners' living quarters by a local high school volunteer.
This cart was really big (and heavy)!
On Sunday, we went into Presidio for Mass, and then took a bike ride around the public lands surrounding the RV Park (about 4 miles). That evening, we were invited to a pizza party given by the RV park. We met several friendly people there.
Santa Teresa de Jesus Church Reportedly built on the site of the first Christmas celebrated in Texas in the 1600s
Actual wetlands (in the desert!) across the street from the RV park
Years ago, the original owner of Loma Paloma RV park had started construction on a golf course (now the wetlands). He died before completion, and all that remains are a few greens that seem to be maintained for public use.
One of the golf greens.
Seems we keep meeting up with the Rio Grande. Not as scenic here, though.
Riding the public lands behind the RV park. It wasn't long before we got bogged down in sand and had to turn back.
The RV park in the distance
This prickly pear is a purple variety
The pizza party was held at "The Lizard Lounge"
This post has too many photospheres in it to work so you need to continue on to part two by clicking here:
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